After a long period of ill health, he died at his home in Paris on June 1, 2008.īrowse an extraordinary collection of vintage Yves Saint Laurent evening dresses, shirts, handbags and other clothing and accessories today on 1stDibs. “I am no longer concerned with sensation and innovation, but with the perfection of my style,” Saint Laurent said four years before retiring, in 2002. ![]() Mondrian’s purity met its match in Saint Laurent. The design is the epitome of Saint Laurent’s aesthetic, requiring a meticulous hand piecing of each color block so that, despite the body’s curves, the visual plane is as flat as a canvas when the garment is worn. With its pure lines and hues, Mondrian’s ground-breaking 1935 color-block painting Composition C transmutes beautifully into a dress that is highly valued by collectors of contemporary fashion and widely copied commercially to this day. It is a prime example of how Saint Laurent, an avid art lover and collector, looked to painters, from Goya to Picasso, Ingres to Matisse, for inspiration. Saint Laurent drew on the colors, shapes, and materials of such places as Africa, Russia. China served as the couturier’s new source of inspiration, and its folklore fed his imagination. His revolutionary Mondrian mini dress from 1965 is a core element of his fashion biography. The Spanish collection was followed by the Chinoises collection, which corresponded with the launch of Yves Saint Laurent’s new fragrance Opium. Saint Laurent had given birth to a global brand. In 1966, they opened the first YSL Rive Gauche women’s boutique in Paris, followed soon thereafter by YSL Rive Gauche for men. With Pierre Bergé, his then-lover who became his lifelong business partner and friend, the designer founded Yves Saint Laurent YSL to encompass prêt-à-porter, or ready-to-wear. He shook the traditional couture clientele to its core with youthful silhouettes and styles like the A-line trapeze dress that hung with seeming effortlessness from the shoulders, the antithesis of the pinched waists and molded skirts that had been all the rage after the deprivations of World War II.Īfter a mandated spell in the torturous French military, Saint Laurent suffered a nervous breakdown and was dismissed by Dior in 1962. A mere slip of a youth, the 21-year-old Saint Laurent was nevertheless up to the challenge. Surprisingly soon thereafter, Dior publicly chose Saint Laurent as his successor, which sadly proved prescient when the fashion legend died unexpectedly, in 1957. Just two years later, in 1955, his remarkable sketches were shown to Christian Dior, then the world’s reigning couturier, who hired him immediately. Saint Laurent also consistently used Black models, like Mounia, Iman and Naomi Campbell, and he drew endless inspiration from different ethnicities and cultures, in no small part because of his Algerian roots.īorn to French parents in Oran, Algeria, in 1936, Saint Laurent went to Paris at age 17 to study fashion at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. Many of his designs are today considered timeless classics. Now, it’s the focus of an exhibition at the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent in Paris, running through July 19. By blurring gender-specific design, he empowered individual style while creating a scissor-sharp fashion aesthetic of sensual ease and beauty. Throughout his four decades in fashion, Yves Saint Laurent’s Libération collection, unveiled on January 29, 1971, is widely seen as one of the designer’s most pivotal and controversial moments. Using traditional menswear fabrics and designs for women, Saint Laurent also literally cross-dressed, giving men and women alike chic pant suits, elegant tuxedo jackets and urban safari gear. ![]() He was the first couturier to open boutiques for both men and women. Saint Laurent was the first to launch a ready-to-wear label, YSL Rive Gauche Prêt-à-Porter. W Graham Robertson, 1894, by John Singer Sargent.French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent pioneered “cross-design” in fashion, taking inspiration from street trends to modernize haute couture. Magnolias and Irises, c1908, by Louis Comfort Tiffany © Estrop/Getty Images. Louis Vuitton SS23 © Bettmann/Getty Images. ![]() Still life, 1953, by Giorgio Morandi © Fondazione Magnani-Rocca. Loewe SS23 © Fine Art Images/Heritage Images/Getty Images. The Fall of Man, after 1537, by Lucas Cranach the Elder. Saint Laurent gave a heady whiff of John Singer Sargent, but Loewe threw the biggest curveball, its grass-garnished wares reminding us of humanity’s very first fashion statement. ![]() Beyond the direct homages, though, we can see how the canon permeates designers’ minds non-stop.Īt Louis Vuitton, a decidedly post-impressionist field of flowers freshened up the suiting at Zegna, the muted tones of Giorgio Morandi were unmistakable. This season the catwalk was awash with artistic references: Dior’s Bloomsbury idyll featured knits inspired by Duncan Grant, while Junya Watanabe’s collection was a riot of pop-art nods.
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